$150 for an engine block SHIPPED? Are you missing a zero? Christ, that's like how much it would cost to ship something that huge and heavy. I am no car guy but that sounds like a steal. Or are they usually that cheap.
It is a steal my friend. I pretty much paid for his time and the shipping charges. :mrgreen: The block was 70lbs crated and all the seller told me. So it is heavy but not extremely heavy.
Just go with the standard ricer coilovers unless you're interested in racing; otherwise for the street the ricer stuff will give you a great look and handle ok
Uh... I wouldn't reccommend coilovers to anyone unless they race it a few times a year. I run high spring rate coilovers year round on my 240 and it's pretty unpleasant for anything over an hour drive. They will crack your rims if you hit a bad pothole and it'll shake your car so much she'll rattle like an aluminum can with a BB in it. Get an aftermarket spring/shock combo. Honda | Acura Research, Reviews, Performance Parts, Owners - Honda-Tech.com will be your best friend.
I was looking around on the link you gave me(first time to the site) and I noticed I bought the block from a moderator on that forum. Vinuneuro is his board name and Vig is his real name haha...funny coincidence. *If* I am going to mess with the suspension I am going to do things right. I do not want to sacrifice to much ride quality. As for now I am going to concentrate on getting the car running and the interior back to stock and fix this mess of radio wiring he left.
That's what people go for... Ricers love high spring rate coilovers like JIC and Tein and stuff cause it's bling and cheap crap. If you want to set your car up for handling, find out what the proper ride height and spring rates are for a car like yours for street/track compromise, then get some good shocks valved correctly for that. Then work on the alignment, which is key. However, there's something to be said for a stock car with nice shocks, tires and a basic alignment. The word is balance I think Something enjoyable about a nice handling car that can tour the back roads without breaking your spine or having to dodge every bump in the road; not to mention day-to-day driving stress-free.
Ouch.. I have JIC FLTA2's and they ran me $2200 about 5 years ago and they're in great shape. So.. eat it! But yeah, if you get coilovers then they aren't really worth it unless you take it to a shop that specialized in suspension and have them setup everything for you. Cornerweighting, alignment, etc... All the ricers around here just have spring/shock combo's because coilovers, generally, are pretty damn expensive.
I like the Mercedes airmatic system. When I want a cadillac ride, it's there. When I want handling somewhat like a track car, it's also there.... at th push of a button. There's this big overpass I drive everyday and use the airmatic just for that... burn around cars at 95 to their 60 on a posted 45 and it feels great.
theirs nothing wrong with good coilovers or springs/shock combo, but good coilovers are going to run alot more $$ then a decent spring/shock setup and arn't going to be of much benefit unless your really going to take advantage of the adjustability. or you want to be a hard parker
It's interesting how the term coilovers has become synonymous with extremely stiff "race" suspension even though the vast majority of coilover suspension sold in the aftermarket is complete and utter junk. What I like about converting to 2.5" coilover type springs is the huge amount of spring rates available. The ability to adjust ride height (more specifically preload in most cases) is a bonus but is honestly something most people never do more than once.
captains log, star date 06052009 I received the H22A SH block in the mail today. It was packaged OK, not as good as I thought but I received it undamaged. I found a buyer for those Mugen seats, sparco harness bar, and sparco harnesses. I shipped them off yesterday which was pretty expensive at 200 dollars for two separate packages. I also pretty much finished up with the interior of the car. And I need to buy and install a radio and figure out the wiring mess the original owner left for me. ...and now for everyone's favorite part! THE PICTURES! The way the interior was when I received I got the car No seatbelts? I do not know why but the original owner decided to just cut the seat belts and let them retract into the door panel... Yay! He cut up the stock radio wiring harness and left a bunch of other wires that I have no idea where they go! :butthead: During cleanup Interior pretty much finished, I am waiting on the front seat belts, ebrake handle, and shift knob to come in the mail. Then I will look into installing a radio. I had to buy and install new seat belts :finga: Tomorrow I will finish removing the engine from the car and taking it apart and I will mic' everything so I can figure out what size bearings I am going to need. Then i will order everything monday and more than likely put the engine back into the car the following weekend and have it running :mrgreen: Here is everything I have spent on the car so far... Car:1800 SH block: 150 Seats, seat belts, floor mats, and window trim: 400 Stock rear tail lights: 80 Sold... Mugen seats, Sparco harness bar, Sparco harness: +1300(really +1100 because of shipping) Not counting the price of the car I hope I can finish the car with the money that is left from selling the all the sparco junk. I have 470 left and think I can get the car running with that. ..and before anyone ask why...the total cost of this car should be around $2000 when it is all said and done but it will blue book for $9000. For some reason these preludes hold there value better than other honda's of the same year. So if at any point I decided to sell the car I will make a very nice profit :twisted:
Seriously, if the stereo wiring is that Mickey Mouse, I'd just run all new wiring (power, signal) to the head-unit and to the speakers. You don't have to spend a whole lot of money to get it better than factory anyway. Great progress BTW. What's in store for the block?
All stock to factory specs. I am not trying to build a Dracula motor or anything like the honda kids like doing. Just looking for a reliable car with good gas mileage.
Engine is out of the car and the bottom end is rebuilt My cousin (master tech at local honda ) oh hai..im your new rebuilt bottom end At this point im waiting on some parts before the engine goes back into the car. I need a new timing belt, balance shaft belt, water pump, and random gaskets. Everything should be here in the middle of the week and we might put the engine back into the car this up coming weekend or wait for the next weekend after. Either way I am more than happy with everything since I get all the parts at cost :mrgreen:
When I read how I had to do the bearings on this bottom end I had to recruit him. He owed me a favor since I helped him build the engine in his ford cougar.
oh yea I also had to get a new clutch. the car had a 6 puck clutch in it and it was pretty much dead already... *sigh* another thing to spend money on. i got a cc stage 2 clutch
