Discussion in 'Gearhead Garage' started by Chainblade, Dec 25, 2007.
any recommendations for websites or books that would help?
Autoparts store, the Haynes or Chiltons manual for your specific vehicle. First purchase for every vehicle I own, some folks buy air fresheners and Armor-all,,,, I don't care what it smells like, I want it to run.
Yeah, Haynes and Chiltons are god sends. They'll break it down so anyone can figure out how to work on it.
I've used both Haynes and Chiltons. I hated the damned Haynes manual for my old Mercedes. I swear to god, every time I wanted to do something minor(like adjust the headlights) it would tell me to take it to the dealer, but If I had to tear down the trans it gave a full writeup. WTF?
Chilton's do rock though.
Changing the oil is easy though, you don't need a manual. Get an oil pan/bucket pull your oil plug(not your trans plug), drain the oil, replace plug, pull oil filter, replace oil filter with a new one(put fresh oil on the rubber o-ring first), throw in 4 quarts of oil, run the vehicle for 30 seconds, check oil level and add as necessary and remember the rough amount it needed for next time.
If you want any engine to last, change the oil before it's needed. I change my oil every 3k miles(in every car/truck) and use Mobile1 with good filters. I've never had an engine failure.
lmao too many words lol. that's how dumb i am with vehicles, all that you just said is like a different language to me.
however, I do get my oil changed every 3,000 miles or so. Here's a question for you. Is "high mileage" oil worth it? I've read lots of stories that it's a waste and really doesn't do much of anything.
EDIT: so this is the book you are talking about: http://www.delmarlearning.com/brows...id=11989&isbn=0801991315&cat1ID=AU&cat2ID=CHM
That's the book you need.
To change your oil:
Get under vehicle. Lift if neccesary, always jack stands and wheel chocks(blocks of wood).
Underneath the engine there will be a large stamped metal "pan". It's usually the lowest part of the engine. Be carefull though, transmissions are sometimes mistaken by novices.
Find the oil "plug". It will be a bolt with approximately a 5/8" head. Remove plug and let the oil drain. It is also advisable to run the engine for about 30 seconds prior to drainage, to get the solids in the oil and not sticking to the bottom.
Replace the plug.
Remove the oil filter. It's a cylinder roughly the size of a soup can. Use a strap wrench or a or filter puller. You can sometime remove them by hand, or in a pinch, stab through them with a screw driver and use the driver's torque to remove it.
The new filter will have a rubber O-ring. get a little fresh oil on your finger and get that o-ring wet. Put the new filter on, screw it in till it's as tight has you can get it with bare hands.
Pour 4 quarts of oil into the oil filler. Average engine's use 4-5 quarts, very large engines use 6.
Run engine for roughly 30 seconds.
Check oil level. If it's low(probable) add more and run the engine for another 30 seconds.
Re inspect underside of vehicle and engine compartment for leaks, or anything loose you may have over looked when doing the job. Done.
If you have all the tools handy it should take no more than 30 minutes to do this. It takes me about 25 minutes to change oil, clean and put away tools.
That's pretty much what the book gives you but w/ pics.
I've done lots from these books but make sure you read through top to bottom first. I had a bad steering column in an S10, tilt steering, 4 bolts on a u-joint inside the cab worked loose, Started w/ the manual and it gets me the column stripped and the ignition out and tells me then that the rest is too complex and bring it to the dealer! WTF!!! I called a mechanic freind and after a few laughs at my expense he showed me what to do.
Most repairs are easy enough and at worst you'll buy a few one time tools, like the gismo to align clutchplates. I've got one from my wifes '81 Toyota Celica, I did the clutch in '90, junked the car in '93 or 4 and still have that tool in my box.
If you post up here what you plan to do I'm sure guys will give you tips on what to avoid or to buy in advance, things like drum brakes, get the spring removal tool and new retention springs every time. They cost about $10 and save you so much grief in assembly it's a well spent sawbuck.