So I want to put in a simple wash basin in my basement...

Discussion in 'Gearhead Garage' started by MSP, Sep 17, 2011.

  1. MSP

    MSP Haunting a dead forum...

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    The location I've chosen is directly next to the drain...

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    ...with a threaded access port...

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    ...and directly overhead are the hot and cold water lines.

    09-17-11_1341.jpg

    Any idea what it would cost to put in a simple one sink basin? I'd really rather pay a pro to do it, I've got basically zero plumbing experience.
  2. ivwshane

    ivwshane We are all old school!

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    I don't know how much it would cost to hire someone to do it but it really isn't that hard since everything is right there. $50 in materials, tops. I couldn't imagine it being more than $500 for labor.
  3. Octane91

    Octane91 <smartass comment> Staff Member

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    Shouldn't be to expensive, but it wouldn't be hard to do it yourself.
  4. -=Lurker=-

    -=Lurker=- **BANNED**

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    Easy stuff.. do it yourself. The hardest part is learning how to sweat copper. Everything is right there.
  5. MSP

    MSP Haunting a dead forum...

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    Yeah, I guess you're right. I just like a nice professional job, and I just don't have time to be a pro at everything. If I could have the basin installed for 300-400 I would prefer to just make it happen.
  6. Octane91

    Octane91 <smartass comment> Staff Member

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    You're way too OCD MSP :p
  7. MSP

    MSP Haunting a dead forum...

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    I can't deny it, it's true.
  8. mistawiskas

    mistawiskas kik n a and takin names

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    $400-450 total is reasonable. Plumbers are just as hungry as the rest of the trades right now. That's a 1 1/2-2 hour easy job.
  9. MSP

    MSP Haunting a dead forum...

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    I guess I'm going to install it myself, the more I read it's pretty ridiculous for a reasonably intelligent, mechanically inclined person to pay for such a simple task.

    The basin and faucet are going to cost me about $80. And installation of the drain should be a breeze. Unscrew that main line plug, and tap into it somehow? Not sure if I need to install a vent or anything. Just a simple trap, right?

    Sweating the lines I should be able to do, I've done it years and years ago with my old man. Not seeing the water shutoff valves though, would I just turn things off at the main, and at the water heater?
  10. ivwshane

    ivwshane We are all old school!

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    The only concern I have is that I didn't see a vent stack near by. You will have to check code but the easiest solution would be to use an aav vent.

    I don't know if you should use the threaded clean out as your starting point (wiskas can probably answer that). I'd cut into the pipe above the clean out and put in a 45 degree wye adapter and continue to the basin.
  11. MSP

    MSP Haunting a dead forum...

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    See, this is why I wanted a pro installer. I've got no idea what the code requirements are, and there's definitely not a vent stack nearby. So the AAV vent just vents into the room?
  12. mistawiskas

    mistawiskas kik n a and takin names

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    That is a clean-out. you'll need to tee off with a san-tee for you hook-up and to and retain the clean-out functionality. Venting should be no problem as the three inch line is vented and more than adequate for the max load the sink will generate. Venting is to rid the line of sewer gasses and prevent suction build-ups. Tee into the hot and cold. Run your 1/2"
    copper down to 90 degree slip-to-threaded female adapters. Install a 1/4 turn angle stop shut-off valve on each. Then run your supply lines up to the faucet connections.

    You may have to shut down the whole house's supply if there is no dedicated shut-of to that area. locate your meter and lift the cover. Is there a shut-off after (on the house side) the meter? If so, just turn it to the right as far as you can. If not there is a elongated (rectangular) cam on the meter itself. It helps to have the right tool as you may break the meter if you use a wrench or vice grips to turn it. The city will charge you between 300 and 850 to fix a broken meter. (been there, done that)
    The correct procedure is to call the water department and they'll come out and shut it down for you and re-engage it when you're ready for it to be turned back on.
    Once the water is off, turn your hot water heater off and the shut off valve also. You'll need to drain those water lines before attempting to sweat them. If there is any water close to your splice, you'll not be doing any sweating but go through a lot of expensive solder and you will turn the air blue with various swear words. I usually cut all my parts and sweat up the assemblies prior to cutting into the actual water lines. That way the new lines are already fitted with shut-offs and the tee for the existing lines. All that's left then, is to cut, clean, flux and sweat. Viola! new plumbing.
    MSP says thanks for this.
  13. MSP

    MSP Haunting a dead forum...

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    Anybody ever use these Sharkbite / Gatorbite fittings? Talk about easy!

    [video=youtube;2I7CB0WUM7M]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2I7CB0WUM7M[/video]
  14. Miller

    Miller Tweak Guru

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    sharkbite fittings are easy, but rather expensive. they are more geared towards the homeowner that cant solder. I wouldn't use them in my house. you very rarely see them in the professional world. Like it was stated above, you shouldn't need a vent. i'm sure that line is vented already. Make sure to use valves for the lines coming to the sink. Another route you can take is cpvc, easy to cut, glue etc. make sure you use primer, not cleaner before the glue. almost all new construction uses this, I wouldn't use it in my house though. only copper for this fitter. the easiest way is probably going to be to shut off the water at the main. drain down all the pipes.

    let me know if you have any questions, I do this shit all the time.

    Oh and make sure you support your pipe somehow. cpvc every 4', copper every 6 (I think)
    MSP says thanks for this.
  15. -=Lurker=-

    -=Lurker=- **BANNED**

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    Those things look like air line quick-connect fittings used on commercial trucks.
  16. mistawiskas

    mistawiskas kik n a and takin names

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    Sharkbite is prone to leak. CPVC is fragile. Myself, I'd not use anything but properly sweated copper or PEX. As stated above, support those pipes, CPVC straps for CPVC and copper straps for copper. If you use steel on copper it'll electrolocize and the steel will eat the copper.

    Too bad you live all the way in Ohio. If you weren't too far from here, I'd knock that out in an hour for you.
  17. MSP

    MSP Haunting a dead forum...

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    Thanks for all the help guys, this was ridiculously easy. Still gotta run the hot and cold water lines, currently planning on putting in two push connect T valves and braided lines.

    09-24-11_1100.jpg
  18. ivwshane

    ivwshane We are all old school!

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    Did you add a trap to that?
  19. MSP

    MSP Haunting a dead forum...

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    Oh yeah, can't see it in the photo.
  20. PeNZ

    PeNZ Tweak OG

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    Nice job
  21. MSP

    MSP Haunting a dead forum...

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    I'm going to save a bundle too. The tub, faucet, and drain gear and tools weren't even 100 bucks. The T valves and braided water lines will be another 40 bucks. $360+ left in my pocket, plus I learned something new. :thumbsup:
  22. Miller

    Miller Tweak Guru

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    Did you install it with your ass crack hanging out like a pro?
  23. MSP

    MSP Haunting a dead forum...

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    Sadly I've not reached that level of plumbing perfection.

    [video=youtube;WVdzP53X9vw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVdzP53X9vw&feature=fvwp&NR=1[/video]
  24. mistawiskas

    mistawiskas kik n a and takin names

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    Now that's a BC I could see everyday.
  25. MSP

    MSP Haunting a dead forum...

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    OK, all done. Maybe 25 minutes for the hot/cold water lines, including shutting off the main and draining everything. I consulted with a plumber friend, and the staff at both Lowes and Home Depot before arriving on this setup. Total cash and prizes including tools, faucet, sink, everything came to $175. Thanks for everyone's help!

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