OBD Inspection Fails, But the car needs to put on more miles before it can be tested again??

Discussion in 'Gearhead Garage' started by Torx, Jan 8, 2012.

  1. Torx

    Torx Indigenous Nudist

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    i replaced the battery in my moms old buick because it had been sitting up for weeks dead.
    the tag has been expired since last year, so driving around in it is risky.
    i took it through inspection and the obd failed because the car hasnt seen 50 miles before the ecu starts logging error codes (this is what the person said)
    so i drive around the city putting on at least 50 more miles, risking getting pulled over... go back through inspection and fail again because its still not enough miles for the ecu to say "okay im ready to display any codes"

    this is bullshit. how does one know how many miles to put on a car before the ecu starts logging?
    and how fucked up is it to say your car needs xx amount of miles put on if your tag is expired, or about to expire?

    imagine people that are trying to get inspection at the end of the month having to go through this dumb shit... rediculous.

    what should i do? or be done?
    i really see now why this obd scanning is utter bullshit...

    keep in mind, the tag is expired on the car, so any driving around is very risky as memphis has turned into an army sized police run city
    would putting the car on blocks and letting it run be an option? or just plain dangerous?
  2. Torx

    Torx Indigenous Nudist

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    this is insane. to allow the car to be OBD "ready" after a reset or batt disconnect.. you must perform at least 1-3 or more drive cycles. and thats a big IF on the number of drive cycles.. im reading alot of people just happen to be obd ready by chance, no matter how many times. o_O

    is there anyway to make the obd ready without performing these dangerous steps? really? 55 is only allowed on the interstate, and gradually slowing to 20mph?? wtf.
    on top of that now the check engine light is on.. you would think the diagnostics are being performed enough to make that light come on.. if the test EVEN goes further from the OBD readiness, then the cars gonna fail because of the damn check engine light.

    makes you wanna just scrap the car and buy a new one. of course thats what they want you to do... its either that or get tickets from driving illegally and putting money into the auto repair industry. corrupt ass city.
  3. -=Lurker=-

    -=Lurker=- **BANNED**

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    You just have to drive it and wait for the readiness monitors to reset. No way to bypass it.

    The Check Engine Light will stay on until the readiness monitor related to that fault has been reset and the sensor that was recorded out-of-range is seen as within range again.

    OBDII isn't "bullshit". Get a grip man. The whole reason this happened is because you didn't have a battery tender plugged into the cigarette lighter socket before you disconnected the battery. The flash memory in the ECU got wiped so you need to resupply enough sensor data before all the readiness monitors can reset and throw codes if necessary. The only way to do that is put it through drive cycles that try to cover every scenario possible during normal driving conditions for the ECU to compare new data with.

    Can't you get a temp (month) registration tag in TN so you can drive the car and have it run through the tests? Another option is to take it to a shop and have them run it on a dyno.
    Torx says thanks for this.
  4. MSP

    MSP Haunting a dead forum...

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    I never plug a battery tender into my car when I switch out the battery, never had to. No error codes or problems, other than having to enter the radio security code to get it to work again.
  5. -=Lurker=-

    -=Lurker=- **BANNED**

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    It won't trigger a Check Engine Light but when hooked up to a scan tool you will see the readiness monitors as "Pending" rather than "Ready". In other words, it needs all that data back again. Hooking up a tender keeps that data already stored from being lost and thus not resetting the readiness monitors.

  6. -=Lurker=-

    -=Lurker=- **BANNED**

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    Also, the tech should have told you which specific monitors you are still pending so you don't have to go through the drive cycles for all (up to 11) different monitors. Best bet is to have someone with a scan tool pull the readiness status for the monitors and find that out first.
  7. MSP

    MSP Haunting a dead forum...

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    Ah! We don't have vehicle inspections here so I guess it would never impact me.
  8. Torx

    Torx Indigenous Nudist

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    thank lurk :D
    i use an obd bt adapter and torque app on my android phone to pull codes and information. do you know about it?

    yea ive suggested to go get a temp tag. i think thats gonna be the only way. but damn, what a hassle.
    car probably still wont pass after readyness, bad codes will probably pop up
  9. tweakmonkey

    tweakmonkey Webmaster Staff Member

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    Torx,
    You'll have to just drive it several times. I put 400 miles on my mr2 to get it ready... But the quickest way is get the car fully warmed up (drive 20 or so miles) then park it and wait 8-10 hours. Repeat. The drive cycle is the vehicle reaching operati g temperature from below some threshold.

    Also if it doesn't get ready within some reasonable time it may actually throw a check engine light. On my mr2, it seemed like it would never show status ready. It wouldn't throw codes ether. Then eventually it threw a code.

    If you buy an obd2 scanner you can check ready state.

    Edit- adding to what Lurker wrote: theres probably one or two sensors that aren't ready yet. You can find the specific drive cycle / readiness routine for those sensors.
    Torx says thanks for this.